It’s been a little while, but in my last post, I talked about my ill adventures in Butterick 6090. This is where I left off
I wasn’t happy with the bodice, especially since I messed up the shoulder seam. I took it all apart the next day and started working on my new idea.
I used the bodice from Butterick 5748 as a template to redraw the top of the bodice. As you can see below, I laid the original lower bodice piece under B5748’s bodice and taped a piece of wax paper on top. I traced a new upper piece from there.
I then cut out the wax paper template and cut it out of the starry fabric. I lined the new piece with the same fabric so all the edges would be nicely finished.
I went through a similar process with the back piece, though, because B5748 has a low back neckline, I free-handed the neckline. Mostly, I wanted to make sure the shoulders and armholes would match. I lined the two pieces up at the center back and darts.
I left the extra room at the edge because I knew I was going to take in the seam there anyway and wanted to do it through a fitting instead of hoping that the pattern was still correctly altered to fit me. As it ended up, I needed that extra room.
Now I went back to actually sewing the bodice. The front came together fairly easily and, after pinning it on my dressform, I felt a huge wave of relief. I am definitely more confident and happy with this neckline, and I feel like it represents my aesthetic more.
I finished the armholes individually for each pattern piece, because the upper bodice piece was lined and the back and lower bodice needed facings. If I make the pattern again, I will face it all at once (or line the whole thing), but I think the construction did not suffer too much.
The side seams are French seams for a nice, clean, fray-free look.
Now it was time to start thinking about the collar. I sketched out two different templates and pinned them on to compare.
I chose the left (in the picture) piece for the front collar and the right one for the back collar. I cut the pieces out of the black fabric and started sewing. I also sewed on and hemmed the skirt.
I kinda faked the front opening. It’s sewn shut from the hips down and closes with snaps above that. I sewed pink buttons on the outside (but they aren’t functional). I still don’t know how to make my machine make a buttonhole, so I just kinda avoided that.
I will have pictures of the finished dress for all of you next week! For now, thanks for reading, and I’d love to hear what you think of the bodice’s transformation!